Bolinas - -- Bill Niman built a $65 million empire on a simple idea that revolutionized the food world - that meat could be more than just what's for dinner. It could be raised naturally, humanely and sustainably, better for people and the planet. Niman knew success would take time, but believed his methods would prove profitable.
But in nearly 30 years of existence, despite becoming the darling of high-end chefs and turning the brand into a household name, Niman Ranch never did turn a profit. In fact, it was broke. To save it from Bankruptcy Court, the East Bay company merged last month with its chief investor, Chicago's Natural Food Holdings LLC, and Niman was officially out.
The 64-year-old Bolinas man said he can live with losing the business he built from scratch. But he can't stand quietly by, he says, while the new owners fundamentally change the brand that influenced an entire food movement. He refuses to eat their products.
Officials from the company argue that the integrity of Niman Ranch's meat program has never been better.
"We believe that our protocols are stronger, the auditing of the protocols more rigorous, and the current business model is more financially viable," said Niman Ranch CEO Jeff Swain.
Still, it prompts the question: Can idealism ever pay?
Many say Niman is the epitome of an idealist, whose mission was to change the way people eat and encourage them to think ethically about their food.
"He showed you can raise farm animals with commercial success, without resorting to exceedingly cruel practices," said Wayne Pacelle, president and CEO of the Humane Society of the United States. "There are some people in the humane movement who don't think there is any such thing as happy meat. But in the larger vision, Bill Niman led the pathway."
Commercially, Niman's methods were unorthodox, the ideals of a hippie who had moved out West during the Vietnam War to avoid the draft by teaching school in the heart of farm country. Unlike mainstream producers, Niman forbid growth hormones, used antibiotics only when an animal became sick, and demanded that the livestock be raised on the open range and readied for slaughter in an uncrowded, Niman-owned feedlot.
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