The government going after raw milk was something a lot of people could comfortably ignore — fringe-y kooks making a lot of noise about milk that could be dangerous.

But start messing with people’s $22-per-pound raw-milk Camembert … well, now you’re dealing with serious food for more mainstream foodies.

Yet that’s what may be happening. The five-year-old war on raw milk appears to be expanding to include a war on raw cheese.

The American Cheese Society, with more than 1,200 members, mostly from the specialty cheese world, is warning its cheese producers to be on guard for a crackdown by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration.

“In recent weeks the FDA has stepped up audit activity and inspections at creameries around the country,” the organization’s president, Christine Hyatt, wrote in a letter to members last week. She advised them to “be prepared for visits from inspectors, and follow careful internal systems to ensure the quality and safety of your products.”

She noted that the organization is currently surveying members to determine exactly how widespread the FDA visits are. But she noted that at its annual meeting last August, “the topic of regulatory activity was front and center.”