Hemp Clothing Making a Comeback
The Hamilton Spectator (Canada) September 13, 2002
Hemp fabric making a comeback; Designer Armani is promoting hemp clothing
and cultivation BY: Marvin Caplan During discussion about the recent debate
over the decriminalization or legalization of marijuana, I was reminded
of a clothing fibre that had fallen out of favour but has recently been
making a comeback -- hemp. In the years before the early 20th century,
fabric from hemp was far more popular than cotton. For a number of reasons,
including the use of some forms of hemp as a drug, growing hemp was prohibited
in Canada 1938 and discouraged or forbidden in much of the rest of the
world. The psychoactive substance in marijuana, THC, is virtually nonexistent
in hemp grown for fibre. Hemp is a fibre that has a finish similar to
flax or linen and ramie.
It is very quick-growing and has exceptionally long fibres. Cotton fibres
are about 20 millimeters long, while the fibres of the hemp plant can
reach several meters in length. As well as their much greater length,
hemp fibres are stronger, more absorbent, and far more environmentally
friendly than cotton. While much of the fabric I've seen has a harsh hand
(or feel), I'm told that some spinners are producing fibre that rivals
silk in its soft hand and sheen. Probably due to the history of the connection
to marijuana, clothing products of hemp have found most of their initial
popularity with younger clients and aging hippies.
My first wardrobe item made from hemp fibre was a pair of jeans. (As
a point of interest, the original Levi's jeans were made of hemp.) I found
my jeans comfortable, easy-care and exceptionally durable. Even though
the counterculture was the first proponent of this durable fibre, fashion
genius Giorgio Armani has been experimenting with hemp textiles and recently
outfitted actor Woody Harrelson in a tuxedo made from hemp fabric. Not
content to leave his cannabis experiment to finished fashions, the Italian
style guru has had his company participate in a consortium of Italian
farmers and seed producers to restart Italian hemp cultivation near Ferrara
in Italy. Until now, Giorgio Armani had imported the hemp he uses in his
collection from France.
While the initial planting is 200 hectares (494 acres), Armani's consortium
is also building a factory to process hemp with a capacity to process
hemp produced from 1,000 hectares (2470 acres). Canada has allowed hemp
grown from research purposes since 1961, and in 1998, for the first time
in 60 years, commercial production of industrial hemp was permitted. Despite
the marvels of the plant, including its ability to thrive with minimal
or no pesticides, technology has not kept up, and growing and harvesting
hemp remains labour-intensive.
Whether or not the smokable variety of cannabis will or should become
more available is still open to debate; the short-term growth of hemp
fabrics in specialty high-end clothing seems to be probable, particularly
with the support of Armani. The widespread use of this fibre in men's
clothing will take many years, and based on current technology it is unlikely
to ever be more than a small part of the fashion industry. Marvin Caplan
is a Hamilton councillor who spent nearly four decades in the clothing
business. You can contact him at mcaplan@netaccess.on.ca
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