Genetically Engineered Coffee Beans Threaten Millions of Small Coffee Farmers & Farmworkers

May 15, 2001  -  c.2001 The Independent, London, UK GM beans threaten farmers' meagre livelihoods - By Saeed Shah

Millions of coffee farmers in the developing world who are already struggling in a market of dwindling returns face a new threat - that of genetically modified beans. Researchers at the University of Hawaii have created the means to industrialise coffee production to an extent that until now has been impossible. Coffee production is labour-intensive, even on large plantations, because the berries ripen at different times and require hand-picking at just the right moment. Mechanical harvesting produces poor quality coffee, a mixture of ripe and unripe berries.

The researchers have genetically engineered coffee so that the berries' growth stops just short of the point of maturity. When all the berries in a field have reached this stage, they are ripened by a chemical sprayed onto the plants - allowing all the berries to be harvested at once, mechanically. In 1999, the University of Hawaii was granted a US patent on GM coffee. A private company, Integrated Coffee Technologies Inc (ICTI), has been established to develop the product.

Today, the development agency ActionAid will launch a campaign against what it describes as ""unnecessary'' technology. The charity's message is that the development of GM coffee is at an early stage and could be stopped if consumers put pressure on supermarkets.

Tewolde Egziabler, the general manager of the Environmental Protection Authority in Ethiopia, one of the world's main coffee producers, told The

Independent: ""There is no shortage of coffee. There's no need for GM coffee. It will come about because it gives big companies royalties and complete control of the production process.'' And the big agro-chemical businesses and large-scale farmers are most likely to benefit. Western coffee companies, such as Nestle, and retailers will gain from cheaper beans, while the consumers are unlikely to benefit.

About 70 per cent of coffee is grown by seven million poor farmers in plots ranging from small backyards to five-hectare farms. ActionAid says they will not be able to afford to the expensive GM seeds and chemicals, and large farms will reduce their labour, driving yet more people into poverty.

ICTI is looking for a partner to fine tune and market the process. A deal with Monsanto, the GM company, is said to have fallen through, so it is casting around for other partners. ICTI is also behind the creation of plants engineered to produce coffee without caffeine.

Speaking from Ethiopia, Dr Tewolde, one of Africa's most respected voices on environmental issues, said that countries such as his, which are dependent on coffee as the main cash crop, might be excluded from a coffee industry dependent on GM crops. He also said that the introduction of GM plants to Ethiopia could contaminate the country's indigenous varieties. Ethiopia is home to most of the world's natural varieties of arabica coffee, the most popular and highly prized coffee.

ActionAid has contacted big supermarkets, including Sainsbury's and Safeway, as well as the coffee bar chains, such as Starbucks, asking for pledges that they will never offer GM coffee. So far, none has replied.

Critics say that genetically modified coffee is likely to be inferior to that produced on smallholdings, where the trees are tended to on shady plots that suit the plant, and chemicals are not used.

Eve Mitchell, a senior campaigner at ActionAid, said: ""Our experience shows that getting something withdrawn is much more difficult than stopping it in the first place. Once GM coffee gets to supermarket shelves, it will be too late. These smallholders cannot afford to lose even one season.''