Brazil’s budding organics market is part of a larger Latin American trend.

So why are so many Brazilians underwhelmed? Fact is, while agribusiness may pay the country’s bills, and helped elect presidents, a growing number of consumers favor eating well and treading lightly on the land over heaping their plates and topping up trade balances.

The same goes for a new generation of farmers who have capitalized on the green zeitgeist to capture a retail market transitioning from boutique to booming.