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School Cafeterias Starting to Go Organic

Associated Press

September 13, 2004

Some Washington Schools Go Organic for Lunch


OLYMPIA, Washington

The tempting smell of pepperoni pizza drifted through the air as students
poured into the cafeteria. But 11-year-old Cameron Landry walked straight
past the cheesy slices and started piling organic lettuce, pita pockets and
blueberries on his tray.

Sounds like a nutritionist's dream. But it's reality at Lincoln Elementary,
where the school's organic salad bar has proven so popular - and
surprisingly economical - that all Olympia grade schools now have one.

"The food is pretty good. And it's much better because you actually have a
choice," Landry said as he chowed down on salad. "Otherwise, it's 'eat this
or nothing!"'

While fried chicken nuggets and cheeseburgers still reign supreme in most
cafeterias, a small but growing number of schools are turning to organic
food as a way to improve children's health and fight obesity.

The Seattle school district recently adopted a new policy banning junk food
and encouraging organic food in school cafeterias. California school
districts in Berkeley, Santa Monica, and Palo Alto have organic food
programs. And through a program sponsored by the organic yogurt company
Stonyfield Farm, schools in Rhode Island, California, Massachusetts, New
York, New Hampshire and Connecticut have or are getting new vending machines
stocked with all-organic treats.

"This is the beginning of the sea change," predicted Ronnie Cummins,
director of the Organic Consumers Association. "Unfortunately, it's coming
at the same time school districts all over the country are squeezed by a
fiscal crisis."

The biggest hurdle to getting organic food in schools - especially in
schools not in liberal, crunchy-granola cities on the West Coast - is the
cost. Organic food, produced without pesticides, growth hormones or other
additives, generally costs more. That's a tough sell when schools are
struggling to pay for books and teachers.

But Lincoln Elementary has managed to cut its lunch costs, by 2 cents a
meal, while offering a full organic menu. Eliminating dessert, though
initially unpopular with students, covered most of the added cost of organic

"Our kids don't need dessert - they have all this great fruit. It's not like
kids don't get sugar," Lincoln Principal Cheryl Petra said. She's been
pleasantly surprised that students and parents across the district have
embraced the program.

"It's about a long-term investment in the health of our children. We are the
responsible adults. We can do this," Petra said, gesturing to the crowd of
children around the organic salad bar.

Organic food accounts for less than 2 percent of U.S. food sales, but the
industry is growing like a weed. Sales of organic food increased 21 percent
between 1997 and 2002, according to the Organic Trade Association. Industry
analysts expect sales to grow by about 20 percent annually in the next few

School meals are getting new scrutiny in light of the obesity epidemic among
U.S. children. The latest government statistics show that about 31 percent
of children ages 6-19 are overweight, and 16 percent are obese.

"Organic" doesn't necessarily mean "healthy," and pigging out on natural
foods won't help your waistline. But organic programs such as the one in
Lincoln Elementary have successfully gotten children to eat more fruits and
vegetables, which will help improve their health in the long run.

For Gary Hirshberg, the wake-up call came when he asked his teenage son what
he'd eaten at school one day.

"Pizza, chocolate milk and Skittles," was the reply. Not terribly shocking,
except that Hirshberg is president and CEO of the New Hampshire-based
Stonyfield Farm, the largest organic yogurt company in the country.

Thus his campaign to put organic foods in schools was born. Stonyfield Farm
stocks schools with refrigerated vending machines that sell healthy treats
such as Newman's Own Pretzels, Stretch Island Organic Fruit Leather, Silk
Soy Milk, and of course Stonyfield Farm Fruit Smoothies. They're a hit -
even in inner-city neighborhoods that don't match the white, upper-income
demographic profile of most organic devotees.

Meanwhile, the Olympia parent who sparked Lincoln's meal makeover is
becoming something of a Johnny Appleseed for organic school lunches. Vanessa
Ruddy first proposed organic menus when her son was at Lincoln Elementary
and was pleasantly surprised to find school district officials receptive.
She's spoken to parents and school officials from around the country about
the idea.

"The desire is there," she said. "It's something for the whole country to

Her son just started middle school, and when she went to a meeting at the
school last week she noticed all the teachers looking at her.

Ruddy said, "The first thing they asked was, 'Can you do something about the
school lunch program?"'

On the Net:

Lincoln Elementary:

Stonyfield Farm:

Organic Consumers Association: